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Yes, Chef

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HE’D SPENT HISentire adult life in a job where he was unable to talk about his work. In intelligence analysis assignments with the U.S. Air Force, especially in a post-9/11 era, one wasn’t in much of a position to repeat water cooler banter. Now that he is retired and making his mark in the unlikeliest of second careers, BRYCE COULTON has become downright chatty.
 

Get him talking about finocchiona, bresaola, sopressata, ciauscolo or fegatelli and his velvety baritone trips off the tongue with ease. And that’s all without straying from the topic of different varieties of salami.
 

Now Coulton, along with AMSTERDAM FALAFEL & KABOB owners PHIL ANANIA and ANNE CAVANAUGH, is set for the spring opening of the FRENCH BULLDOG DUNDEE CURED MEATS AND CHEESES. To be located at an address that is currently a Subway, the space will compliment such notable neighbors as DARIO’S BRASSERIE, PITCH COALFIRE PIZZERIA and others.
 

He prefers the appellation of “cured meats” to the more formal “charcuterie” and he eschews any hint of an “international man of mystery” aura. Instead he points to extensive travels throughout Europe and the Middle East as having instilled in him a deep appreciation for diverse peoples and their ways.
 

“Intelligence work is about understanding cultures of the world,” Coulton said in the measured tone of a career military man, “and learning about the foods of a people, besides being something that I am passionate about, was just a natural extension of what we did.”
 

His previous work at the BOILER ROOM and his current gig at PITCH, where he often interviewed opposite candidates young enough to be his kids, has allowed Coulton to establish an extensive network of local growers, producers and ranchers to support his business.
 

Old World sensibilities will soon intersect with Dundee neighborliness when the French Bulldog becomes the newest imaginative entry in an ever-expanding foodie landscape.
 

“Keeping alive the cultural traditions of cured meats,” Coulton said, “is an opportunity to do something that is rarely done, let alone rarely done well.”

 

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